CV joint replacement advice

**Kenyth** · 05-26-2010, 09:38 AM

I'm slated to try doing this on my wife's vehicle. Anyone ever done one of these? It doesn't look too hard, but paper can be deceiving. I've got a sizable set of hand/power/air tools, and a knack for fixing stuff. I've also done other minor car repair before, just not a CV replacement. A DIY on this will save a good $300-$400, so it's well worth the effort

Any advice from someone whose done the deed?

**EGQ** · 05-26-2010, 11:42 AM

It's not terribly difficult -- I worked as a mechanic when I was in undergrad -- but I had the benefit of a lift and all of the proper tools. A pickle fork is critical to separate the ball joint -- that may be the only tool you'll need that isn't common for a DIYer.

Check out the link below -- a nice video series that should help the process somewhat.

http://www.ehow.com/videos-on_629_replace-cv-joint.html

**kevin7** · 05-26-2010, 11:50 AM

Some of the sealed wheel bearing bolts can be a real bitch to get loose. I put upper and lower ball joints on the durango in 4 hours and the hardest part was all of it LOL. Good luck ,I have an Intrepid Im just waiting for to start that dreaded clicking sound

**Kenyth** · 05-26-2010, 01:07 PM

That's weird. I can't get the video to play in either IE or Firefox.

**Kenyth** · 05-26-2010, 01:13 PM

Originally Posted by kevin7

Some of the sealed wheel bearing bolts can be a real bitch to get loose. I put upper and lower ball joints on the durango in 4 hours and the hardest part was all of it LOL. Good luck ,I have an Intrepid Im just waiting for to start that dreaded clicking sound

Car repairs are always a bitch. I haven't had an easy DIY repair since my old 77 Buik Skylark as a teen. Those were the day's they gave you some room to work in the engine compartment, and you didn't need a special tool for every job. An SAE wrench set would get you by for just about anything.

I have a large breaker bar, an impact wrench, and will buy a pneumatic ball joint seperator (pickle fork) attachment for the air hammer ($7). I'm hoping that will make things easier.

**EGQ** · 05-26-2010, 01:29 PM

Originally Posted by Kenyth

That's weird. I can't get the video to play in either IE or Firefox.

That is odd -- they are a pretty good collection of videos that take you through step-by-step.

**mail man** · 05-26-2010, 01:32 PM

If you have a basic mechanical knowledge base, you should be alright...just remember, if you get mad.....WALK AWAY.

**Kenyth** · 05-26-2010, 02:38 PM

Originally Posted by EGQ

That is odd -- they are a pretty good collection of videos that take you through step-by-step.

It was just my PC. There's something wrong with the player add-in. Anyway, I watched it. Not too bad. His video showed a full drive shaft replacement. What about these rebuilt "half shaft" replacement parts? It's what is listed on the auto zone websites. I'll have to pick up a model specific manual to make sure I know what's up. Taking apart the shaft itself is probably more involved.

**Kenyth** · 05-26-2010, 02:40 PM

Originally Posted by mail man

If you have a basic mechanical knowledge base, you should be alright...just remember, if you get mad.....WALK AWAY.

So, what you're saying is don't get out the body saw and the cutting torch?

**mail man** · 05-26-2010, 02:59 PM

Originally Posted by Kenyth

So, what you're saying is don't get out the body saw and the cutting torch?

Depends what kind of mods you were looking for.

**ggiese** · 05-26-2010, 04:33 PM

Boy - as long as I was digging around on the CV joints, I'd take the time to do some needed maintenance.

Don't forget to replace the Khuneutson Valve. Should be occasionally replaced on engines with camshafts, especially if you see a reduced bore on your engine block.

Take a look at the Johnson Rod - it may need some service. In colder climates it has a tendancy to contract quite a bit, which may lead to failure.

Replace the Blinker Fluid. Most drivers overlook the blinker fluid.

You might also want to take a peek at the Muffler Bearings - they sometimes need to be greased and/or replaced.

Kale Co Auto has just about everything you need

Good luck!

**Kenyth** · 05-27-2010, 10:58 AM

Don't forget to replace the Khuneutson Valve. Should be occasionally replaced on engines with camshafts, especially if you see a reduced bore on your engine block.

-Don't need it! I've upgraded from a camshaft and khuneutson valve to a flux capacitor driving an explosive space modulator unit. Made by Marvin and Brown.

Take a look at the Johnson Rod - it may need some service. In colder climates it has a tendancy to contract quite a bit, which may lead to failure.

-My truck has a Johnson Rod, but this is my wife's car. Her's has the Johnson "bore".

Replace the Blinker Fluid. Most drivers overlook the blinker fluid.

-I have a tendancy to scrape my knuckles when working on cars, so there's never a lack of blinker fluid.

You might also want to take a peek at the Muffler Bearings - they sometimes need to be greased and/or replaced.

-It's still in pristine shape. We generally shy away from using the exhaust port. The Johnson Bore takes the brunt of the wear and tear.

Thanks for the advice!!!!!

Kale Co Auto has just about everything you need

Good luck!

**Kenyth** · 05-27-2010, 11:13 AM

Originally Posted by Kenyth

It was just my PC. There's something wrong with the player add-in. Anyway, I watched it. Not too bad. His video showed a full drive shaft replacement. What about these rebuilt "half shaft" replacement parts? It's what is listed on the auto zone websites. I'll have to pick up a model specific manual to make sure I know what's up. Taking apart the shaft itself is probably more involved.

Silly me! "Halfshaft is just another term for the drive shaft from one side of the vehicle. It comes fully assembled and greased for $70. Should be easy as pie with the right tools.

**kevin7** · 05-27-2010, 11:26 AM

It ain't worth the grief to break down a half shaft,but a rebuilt one

**ggiese** · 05-27-2010, 01:20 PM

Originally Posted by Kenyth

Don't forget to replace the Khuneutson Valve. Should be occasionally replaced on engines with camshafts, especially if you see a reduced bore on your engine block.

-Don't need it! I've upgraded from a camshaft and khuneutson valve to a flux capacitor driving an explosive space modulator unit. Made by Marvin and Brown.

Take a look at the Johnson Rod - it may need some service. In colder climates it has a tendancy to contract quite a bit, which may lead to failure.

-My truck has a Johnson Rod, but this is my wife's car. Her's has the Johnson "bore".

Replace the Blinker Fluid. Most drivers overlook the blinker fluid.

-I have a tendancy to scrape my knuckles when working on cars, so there's never a lack of blinker fluid.

You might also want to take a peek at the Muffler Bearings - they sometimes need to be greased and/or replaced.

-It's still in pristine shape. We generally shy away from using the exhaust port. The Johnson Bore takes the brunt of the wear and tear.

Thanks for the advice!!!!!

Kale Co Auto has just about everything you need

Good luck!

Okay - now we know your ignorance is showing. You aren't much of a mechanic, are you???

-Don't need it! I've upgraded from a camshaft and khuneutson valve to a flux capacitor driving an explosive space modulator unit. Made by Marvin and Brown.

A "flux capacitor driving an explosive space modulator unit"??? Seriously? Anyone who's anyone knows you cannot get a flux capacitor to drive a space modulator unit. ...and add "explosive" to the space modulator? What - are your trying to be cute???

-My truck has a Johnson Rod, but this is my wife's car. Her's has the Johnson "bore".

Now you're just out and out contradicting yourself... If you have a car (wifes, in the case) that has the Johnson Bore - you will definitely need to look at the khuneutson valve. Particularly if "the Johnson Bore takes the brunt of the wear and tear".

-I have a tendancy to scrape my knuckles when working on cars, so there's never a lack of blinker fluid.

Is that where you think Blinker Fluid comes from? ...and I suppose you think baby's come from the stork too!!!!

-It's still in pristine shape. We generally shy away from using the exhaust port. The Johnson Bore takes the brunt of the wear and tear.

Muffler bearings in "pristine" shape??? Hardly - unless, of course, you use the KaleCoAuto brand of Spark Plugs and hollow spark plug wires.

**Kenyth** · 05-28-2010, 07:06 AM

Well, that's nice. None of the boots have worn through, so I have no clue which one it is. All four wheels have them. I get a feeling it's the passenger side front, but I'm going to have to run outside the vehicle while my wife is turning and accellerating just to make sure. That also probably means it's some kind of defective part. CV's should get more than 50K miles as long as the boots hold.

**CoventryCat86** · 05-31-2010, 10:11 PM

An entire rebuilt shaft is usually a whole lot cheaper than trying to replace just a joint on the shaft. I've done at least ten of these jobs over the years.

Price a whole shaft and you'll see what I mean.

What year, make and model car are you talking about?

**Eville** · 05-31-2010, 10:32 PM

How certain are you that it's the CV joint and not just and not just the tie rod end? From What I hear they have similar symptoms. I was hearing some sounds from my front end a few months ago and asked a mechanic buddy if he had any ideas. He told me to jack your car up and shake the wheel, side play (rocking) is a tie-rod end, up and and down play (rocking) is a wheel bearing, or it could just be a bad CV.

**Kenyth** · 06-01-2010, 07:23 AM

Originally Posted by CoventryCat86

An entire rebuilt shaft is usually a whole lot cheaper than trying to replace just a joint on the shaft. I've done at least ten of these jobs over the years.

Price a whole shaft and you'll see what I mean.

What year, make and model car are you talking about?

You're absolutely right. A rebuilt shaft is like $80.

**Kenyth** · 06-01-2010, 07:35 AM

Originally Posted by Eville

How certain are you that it's the CV joint and not just and not just the tie rod end? From What I hear they have similar symptoms. I was hearing some sounds from my front end a few months ago and asked a mechanic buddy if he had any ideas. He told me to jack your car up and shake the wheel, side play (rocking) is a tie-rod end, up and and down play (rocking) is a wheel bearing, or it could just be a bad CV.

It has very "CV" symptoms. A fast clicking/clunking sound that only happens when the wheels are almost fully turned either left or right. After driving a while, when pulled into an enclosed space like the garage, you can detect a hot burning rubber like smell on the passenger side. I assume that's the boot getting hot. I really need to spend some time on it to try and diagnose it, but the wife is a bit of a PITA to pin down on car maintenance issues. I think I've posted about that particular issue previously.