Starting Construction

[DeeDubya]

Now that's a lot of wood!

Ambient RH looks pretty good. (I could only find Austin RH data on-line http://www.txstate.edu/freemanranch/...limatology.pdf , as I can't access NOAA's detailed data because I'm not in the US.) Once your door is in, you can probably season the wood in the room by just opening that outside window at night!

What's your in-house RH like? I'm guessing that will drive how big a humidifier you will need.

I am assuming that there is no air exchange other than the door opening/closing, you are not planning on smoking in there (?), and your cooling is from the house interior via those big windows. You may have to point an oscillating fan (from inside the humidor) at the windows to reduce the windows' insulating efficiency and prevent condensation forming on the windows. Or maybe not, I'm just guessing from looking at the pics. (Glass is not a good insulator, but the thin layer of dead air up against the glass is. That's why double-glazed windows work.)

I'd be tempted to start with something like this one, which maxes at 65%RH: http://www.kaz.com/kaz/store/product...a8b4afac8ee4d/ (Honeywell HCM-6012I) The price of consumer units is so low compared to meant-for-cigars units ...

You can always plumb in an RO system somewhere where you can use it as a source of drinking/cooking water as well, and then later modify the reservoir for constant refilling.

Anyhow, just a suggestion. No doubt Bob Staebell can set you up with what you need without a lot of guessing/extra work/experimentation/etc. A lot of times it is worth the extra cost to pay for the "voice of experience."

Good luck!

Craig,

Sorry to dissapoint you but I have already been smoking in there, a lot! Fortunately, I am a long way from storing cigars, and that little box fan sucks everything out when it's in the window. Yes, the condensation problem might occur, so we will have to wait and see. what happens there.

In-house RH is controlled at 50% more or less. I'm fortunate to have Bamboo flooring and Palmwood furniture and they don't like low humidity so I take care of them.

Oh, by the way I live only a few miles from TSU's Freeman Ranch. I would suspect that I am within .000001% of their average RH.

You're too kind. This helps me a lot. I have planned for a water connect. I have a water conditioner so I'm starting with soft or hard water (choice). Also, I have planned for electrical connections at that location.

I'll check out that humidifier. This forum is awesome, to have someone like you chime in and help solve some problems.

Smooth transition here: I know it's way too soon to be planning the trim-out phase, but scroll up and take another look at the 2" storage shelves. How would those look if faced with wine corks? We have a collection (yes we have other vises) of wine corks. I was thinking about halving corks and facing these ugly shelves. This takes a little imagination but I think you can see it. Also, it would be rainy-day project that we could do ahead of time.

Thanks again for the input.

[craig]

Please let me re-phrase: Are you planning on smoking in there once the walk-in is done? If so, then that's a very different situation, i.e.,:
a) walk-in = just storage = sealed room = no air exchanged except incidental exchange from going into and out of the room = no smoking.
or:
b) if you smoke in there, then you MUST have ventilation (air exchange) during, and for a while after, smoking. The room is too small to not do otherwise.

If it is b), you can handle air exchange very easily because you can easily vent to the outside. If the room is sealed well enough, positive pressure ventilation (fan blowing air from the game room into the walk-in, with an exhaust duct to the outside with, say, flapper valves at intake and exhaust) could work quite well. Alternatively, you can go with negative pressure (same deal, but with an exhaust fan), but you have to do something. This also can affect humidifier requirements. Requirements also depend on what the house HVAC system is like.

Also, the humidifier I picked is just an example. I just went to Honeywell's site and glanced at the specs. You probably can go with a smaller one - but that depends on a) or b) above .

Finally, I'm not an HVAC expert. I fooled around with similar problems because my Father had a darkroom in the basement (he was a professional photographer) and I've setup my own darkroom in most of the places that I've lived at (and we were both smokers). I've also helped my friends with sound studios that they've setup - and musicians smoke a lot too. At the root, all three are the same HVAC problem - setting up a sealed room with a controlled climate that is different from the rest of the house.

P.S. Sorry, can't visualize what the wine corks would look like.

[DeeDubya]

Advise needed: I'll be setting an exterior entry door to the humidor tomorrow. It is an "out-swing" as opposed to the normal "in-swing" like exterior doors usually are. The main difference being the weather stop is inside instead of outside.
Question - What is the best method of sealing the aluminum threshold to the concrete floor so that water can't leak in underneath? I assume it would be some type calk that adheres well to concrete. Any thoughts?

[DeeDubya]

I set the door unit on Saturday. This is a steel/insulated door. The game room is on the left. Sloped shelving will be to the right. The humidifier shelf will be to the left of the door where there is an electrical outlet and water tap. This wall will be covered with 6" tongue & groove cedar planks. I'm trying to decide on paint for the inside of the door. I hesitate using an oil-based enamel because of the smell, although it should dissipate before I start shelving cigars.



An exterior view of the door. Carport on the left. Ideally, I would have preferred an inside door into the humidor; however, floor offset, wall space, electrical wiring and asthetics prevented me from doing so. But since I never smoke in the house, and usually retire to the deck after selecting a cigar, it's all good having it to the outside. Also, the roof has a substantial overhang for protection on a rainy day.

[Diesel Grinch]

Looking good.

One of these days I need to invite myself down to Texas and visit a bunch of BOTL's.


DG

[mrtr33]

That's looking really nice, DW. Thanks for keeping us updated with pics.

[DeeDubya]

I spent about 6 hrs yesterday on this wall and door trim. Boxing the support column in the right corner also took some time, but now I'm ready to start the display shelving. This week I will be picking up the cedar for the flooring. It will be a raised floor instead of directly on the concrete. This will allow air circulation around and beneath to further increase the amount of exposed cedar. RH was 64% when I started work yesterday. That's without a humidifier.
The gray box is a combination duplex receptacle and light switch in a "damp location" enclosure.

[DeeDubya]

2x4 treated subfloor "joists" spaced at 12" provides a 1 1/2" space that allows for air flow beneath the cedar floor. A 3/4" vent down both sides should help. This will also allow for drying if there is a water spill or leaky humidifier.



Rough cedar does not have exact milling and some of the T&G was a chore to firmly seat. Nothing that a block of wood and big hammer couldn't handle however.

[mrtr33]

Very nice work. How does that cedar sand down? Can you get it pretty smooth easily? Is it a hardwood, or kind of soft? Just curious.

[DeeDubya]

Very nice work. How does that cedar sand down? Can you get it pretty smooth easily? Is it a hardwood, or kind of soft? Just curious.

Western Red Cedar is soft yet fairly durable. Compared to other equal size soft woods like White Pine or Spruce I would say it is stronger. I don't have a close up but this is "rough sawn" and has a fuzzy appearance. I will not sand it as this is desirable for good absorption. Actually it soaks up water like a sponge. You can stand a piece of it in a cup of water and it will have emptied the cup in five minutes or less. That's why I'm trying to get as much exposed surface as possible. It will make for a good buffer during the dry winter months. Opening the door even briefly will allow an exchange with the outside air so it needs to get back to normal quickly.

[DeeDubya]

I've also been searching for a reliable hygrometer. I ordered this certified digital one today. I was tempted to go with the certified analog, but cheese-whiz I could buy a box of Partagas 150's for that.

http://www.theweatherstore.com/nicedihy.html

[MrTamborineMan]

I envy you sir. Nice job so far.

[DeeDubya]

I envy you sir. Nice job so far.

Thanks, I can use the encouragement. It's taking more time than I ever imagined. The fun part is next, doing the shelves that require a lot of mitre saw cuts for the support members.

[mrtr33]

...cheese-whiz I could buy a box of Partagas 150's for that.

http://www.theweatherstore.com/nicedihy.html

You can buy a box of 150's for $150? Do let me know. Really nice work, DW. I'm envious as well. Can't wait to see the end results.

[DeeDubya]

You can buy a box of 150's for $150? Do let me know. Really nice work, DW. I'm envious as well. Can't wait to see the end results.

Actually, I think most all of the 150's are gone except for a few Ramon's that are going for around $5k. I looked at a very nice large brass analog (certified) that was around $495. It's pretty, but too expensive. This project is costing more than I anticipated.

[DeeDubya]

Tobacco Barn Oak is one of our specialty products and is made from siding salvaged and recycled from 100 year old tobacco barns that are currently being de-constructed. It is one of our most beautiful and popular products and comes in two forms: character grade and rustic grade. The character grade is tongue & grooved with a re-milled top surface that shows all the beauty of center cut quarter-sawn and flat grain oak with a beautiful aged patina. he rustic grade is tongue & grooved with an original hand brushed top finish that maintains all of the character of 100 year old barn wood.

http://antiqueandvintagewoods.com/woods/index.htm

Not to be used extensively in a humidor, but I thought several pieces would add some character.

[ashauler]

Thanks, I can use the encouragement. It's taking more time than I ever imagined. The fun part is next, doing the shelves that require a lot of mitre saw cuts for the support members.

I'm a whiz at mitre cuts, and I'm available for adoption.

[DeeDubya]

I'm a whiz at mitre cuts, and I'm available for adoption.

OK, but you will have to first prove your talent by clipping the cap on a Padron 1926 with a mitre saw (cleanly).

[ashauler]

OK, but you will have to first prove your talent by clipping the cap on a Padron 1926 with a mitre saw (cleanly).

Absolutely, when can I expect the '26 in the mail? I'll send it back when I cut it and you can judge.

[DeeDubya]

Absolutely, when can I expect the '26 in the mail? I'll send it back when I cut it and you can judge.

Uh-hu, right. Keep in mind that Padron doesn't have Nubs like Oliva.