Making my own Coolerdor

[daredog4]

From all the research i have done on this board and others I just thought i should have some Spanish cedar in there. If you don't have something else besided beads to soak up some humidity then when you open and close the cooler it will cause the RH to swing low and then have to catch up. Also it is good for keeping out bugs and such. I only decided to spend the extra money on trays because i needed some trays anyways, and since i knew i wanted some spanish cedar in there it just made sense. Plus, some day if i buy or build a Large Humidor i can reuse the trays in it.

Also, I know that everyone likes their RH at a different level and I understand and respect all of your opinions. For me i think keeping the RH at 70% and then dry boxing for a day is the best way to go. Many of the cigar makers list on their websites that they reccomend 70% humidity as seen here http://www.olivacigars.com/fundamentals.aspx All in all it just boils down to what you like best.

[FactoredReality]

I have a bag full of empty bags taking up some space in the cooler right now. Having a full cooler will help reduce the ammount of air the beads have to re-humidify upon opening and closing. But don't worry about that, it will solve itself faster than you can imagine.

[bigwhiteash]

Go to home Depot or Lowes, and pick up a sheet of "luan' plywood, made from low grade mahogany, a close relative of Spanish cedar, and equally hygroscopic.

That is, if you're convinces you need a bunch of wood in your cooler. I just have a bunch of boxes in mine.

[craig]

From all the research i have done on this board and others I just thought i should have some Spanish cedar in there. If you don't have something else besided beads to soak up some humidity then when you open and close the cooler it will cause the RH to swing low and then have to catch up. Also it is good for keeping out bugs and such. I only decided to spend the extra money on trays because i needed some trays anyways, and since i knew i wanted some spanish cedar in there it just made sense. Plus, some day if i buy or build a Large Humidor i can reuse the trays in it.

Also, I know that everyone likes their RH at a different level and I understand and respect all of your opinions. For me i think keeping the RH at 70% and then dry boxing for a day is the best way to go. Many of the cigar makers list on their websites that they reccomend 70% humidity as seen here http://www.olivacigars.com/fundamentals.aspx All in all it just boils down to what you like best.

"Good" beads, e.g., RH beads from cigarmony (on sale now IIRC), outperform wood as a buffer. (You would need wood if you went with crystals. Just to confuse the issue, "beads" are actually silica gel (preferably doped with Lithium Chloride), and crystals are often called gel, but are typically polymers ...)

Also, cedar doesn't keep bugs out; the beetles just don't like the taste of that wood, so they won't eat cedar - they'll just crawl around it.

Lots of folks do like the cedar taste in cigars - witness cedar-wrapped cigars (and note that the cedar wrap is on the inside of the cello ...)

If it is important to the way you are planning to use your cooler to address RH swings, then the best way in a large volume of space is to use fans. However, putting cigars in boxes effectively eliminates that concern, i.e., the RH swing from opening and closing isn't going to affect a cigar in a box like it would a cigar in an open tray (assuming cigars without cello).

YMMV.

[TravPSU]

So keeping the cigars in the box they came in closed inside the coolerdor will still allow the humidity to get to them? Or should you sit the box in the coolerdor and keep it open to allow the humidity in?

[craig]

So keeping the cigars in the box they came in closed inside the coolerdor will still allow the humidity to get to them? Or should you sit the box in the coolerdor and keep it open to allow the humidity in?

If everything is already at the RH you want, keep the box closed. Otherwise, once everything is at the RH you want, close the box.

[mrtr33]

mrtr33 - I'd really appreciate that. Let me know what you find.

That's INSANE. If you want, I'll look around here for solid wood boxes, but I'm pretty sure he'll give them to me for next to nothing. Let me know if you're interested in the meantime, and maybe we can work out a deal.

Okay, maybe I'm insane. The guy at my local shop wants $2 for the paper wrapped boxes, and $5 for the all-wood boxes. I may have a few around the house as well; I brought some with me from Oregon to help my brother with an OtterBox/humidor project around Christmastime - they may be a bit cannibalized, however.

Anyway, if you're still interested, shoot me a PM.

[Galvanicfish]

I too have started getting my coolerdor going. So far my costs have been: 28 qt cooler $17, 65% heartfelt beads in tube, 23$. I haven't invested in a hygro yet, since I was wondering if there was any reason I couldn't use my weather sensor for as long as it takes for me to be reassured that all is well inside my cooler.

[daredog4]

Here is what i have so far. I know its not perfect but it is my first Coolerdor and I am very happy with how it has turned out. Once i fill this one my wife is gonna kill me Thanks for the help and the Coolerdor thread. This has been a very fun and easy project.

[TravPSU]

Very nice! I was looking at the cooler on my way out of Wal-mart. Should have bought it. I was worried about boxes not fitting in. Does it have wheels and a handle?

[craig]

I too have started getting my coolerdor going. So far my costs have been: 28 qt cooler $17, 65% heartfelt beads in tube, 23$. I haven't invested in a hygro yet, since I was wondering if there was any reason I couldn't use my weather sensor for as long as it takes for me to be reassured that all is well inside my cooler.

That's what I use (mine are Oregon Scientific). Like any hygrometer, calibrate (salt test) if you're interested in absolute readings.

The essential difference between a weather hygrometer and a digital hygrometer designed for humidor use is the case. A weather unit has a few small holes for air to enter/exit the unit, whereas a cigar hygro has a bunch of holes/grills - you can sometimes see the RH measuring surface (usually looks like a little white wafer with foil lines on it). The restricted airflow means that the weather unit moves a little slower in response to change - but it does move fine.

FWIW, my costs for the last cooler were (roughly):
- 70qt Coleman Extreme: $40;
- pound of beads: $30;
- used (clean) pantyhose to cut up to make a bunch of bags for the beads: 'free' from girlfriend;
- Oust fan: $15;
- wireless weather sensor (w/local display): $40;
- roll of 1/8" thick closed-cell weatherstripping: $5.

[Galvanicfish]

Thank you Craig, as usual you are a veritable font of information.

[Rugbysh9]

That's what I use (mine are Oregon Scientific). Like any hygrometer, calibrate (salt test) if you're interested in absolute readings.

The essential difference between a weather hygrometer and a digital hygrometer designed for humidor use is the case. A weather unit has a few small holes for air to enter/exit the unit, whereas a cigar hygro has a bunch of holes/grills - you can sometimes see the RH measuring surface (usually looks like a little white wafer with foil lines on it). The restricted airflow means that the weather unit moves a little slower in response to change - but it does move fine.

FWIW, my costs for the last cooler were (roughly):
- 70qt Coleman Extreme: $40;
- pound of beads: $30;
- used (clean) pantyhose to cut up to make a bunch of bags for the beads: 'free' from girlfriend;
- Oust fan: $15;
- wireless weather sensor (w/local display): $40;
- roll of 1/8" thick closed-cell weatherstripping: $5.

Craig - I have a question for you as I'm in the process of setting a 42-quart cooler...How did you use the weatherstripping?

Thanks,

Andrew

[TravPSU]

Here is what i have so far. I know its not perfect but it is my first Coolerdor and I am very happy with how it has turned out. Once i fill this one my wife is gonna kill me Thanks for the help and the Coolerdor thread. This has been a very fun and easy project.

Your pics convinced me to start a coolerdor. Just got back from Wal-mart with the cooler and now I'm ordering beads online.

[craig]

Craig - I have a question for you as I'm in the process of setting a 42-quart cooler...How did you use the weatherstripping?

Thanks,

Andrew

Use only if necessary.

The typical plastic cooler is designed for warm-weather use - so it may seal very well in hot conditions, but not as well in cool conditions. In addition, sometimes the fit between lid and cooler isn't as good as one would want, due to manufacturing variations.

These tolerances usually aren't an issue unless the cooler is in a very dry environment (like my house in winter ). Then, the humid air just gets sucked out of the cooler with a loose lid, and you're wondering why the beads need recharging all the time in a cooler that isn't opened. A strip around the lid (or the base) seals things up.

Again, lots of folks won't need the weatherstrip ... and if one is opening the cooler regularly, then that usually makes the weatherstrip redundant.

[Rugbysh9]

Thanks I appreciate the info

-Andrew

[daredog4]

As Craig mentioned it really depends on the cooler as to whether it will seal well enough. This particular cooler (Igloo Ice Cube 60QT) seals very well. The lid sticks down into the cooler about 1/2 inch and the total width that the lid makes contact with is about 2 inches. It also snaps firmly in place when it is shut. If you purchase this cooler i promise you there is no need for any weather stripping. However, I can't be sure about other coolers. I would suggest that you go look at them and see how much surface area there is that makes contact and how well it snaps shut.
Also, this cooler and many others are not completely flat in the bottom due to the wheels or the drain. As you can see in the pics i built a simple shelf that raises the bottom up about 3 inches. I made it slotted so that the air can get underneath and help humidify from the bottom. This was just a personal preferance but you might also take that into consideration when picking out a cooler.

[Rugbysh9]

As Craig mentioned it really depends on the cooler as to whether it will seal well enough. This particular cooler (Igloo Ice Cube 60QT) seals very well. The lid sticks down into the cooler about 1/2 inch and the total width that the lid makes contact with is about 2 inches. It also snaps firmly in place when it is shut. If you purchase this cooler i promise you there is no need for any weather stripping. However, I can't be sure about other coolers. I would suggest that you go look at them and see how much surface area there is that makes contact and how well it snaps shut.
Also, this cooler and many others are not completely flat in the bottom due to the wheels or the drain. As you can see in the pics i built a simple shelf that raises the bottom up about 3 inches. I made it slotted so that the air can get underneath and help humidify from the bottom. This was just a personal preferance but you might also take that into consideration when picking out a cooler.

I'm using an Igloo (42 qrt.) just not the Ice Cube. I just finished airing it out and put 1/2 lb of beads in this morning. Once I get it stabilized I have this feeling its going to be filled pretty quickly.