I went to Peru last summer for 3 months. There's a village there called Chicama which is home to one of the longest right breaking waves in the world. When it's working properly it measures between a mile to 1.5 miles depending on who you ask. Nobody's ever broken out the tape measure.

I stayed at a small hotel called El Hombre for 5 bucks a night. Spent a lot of time learning to play the guitar, waiting for a big enough swell to get the place doing it's thing. I'd say I had 18 days of solid surfing time over the course of my stay. Waking up at day break, 6:00, walking up the length of the rocky point, 15 minutes, and surfing down the beach, 2 minutes, over and over and over... All day when the swell was pumping.

You can't buy memories like. Doing 10 figure eights in a row on a 8 foot wave face...