Originally Posted by Heftysmokes:
Maybe I should do a movie review on Apollo 13 and tell you all "that's as real as it gets" since I'm a fucking astronaut.
All grain brewing takes a lot of equipment and a lot of time. It's best done on a large scale. At least 10 gallons at a time to make it worthwhile.
Extract brewing is much simpler. You basically brew using malt syrup or malt powder. The stuff you would spend all day extracting from all-grain. So your work is half done.
You also want to stay away from Lagers. They take fermenting in temperature controlled environments of lower than 70F. This means you'll need old refrigerators/freezers and external thermostats. Most people don't have the space or money for this.
You'll be making 4-5 gallon batches of warm fermented ale at a time, so the cheapest way to go is with industrial PVC plastic buckets and airtight lids with airlocks and a basic turkey fryer setup. You boil the wort in the turkey fryer. You'll need one six gallon bucket, which can be bought from most brew stores, and two five gallon buckets, which can be bought for cheap at any Lowes, Home Depot, etc.
After boiling the wort according to recipe, you need to cool it off quickly before pitching the yeast. Some folks prefer a cold water/ice bath, but most use a length of coiled copper tubing hooked to your garden hose called a wort "chiller" that you stick in the pot with the end hanging out over the edge. You siphon the wort off the sediment into your primary fermentation container and pitch the yeast when it gets down to 90F. The six gallon bucket is used for the one week primary ferment. You need the extra headspace to contain the foam during this very active ferment timeframe. You then siphon the beer off the yeast sediment into a five gallon bucket for a two week secondary ferment to finish off the sugars and clarify the brew. I find it prudent during this time to boil up another batch for the second five gallon bucket. This way, you don't have to sanitize the primary bucket again and you can use some of the sediment to start your second ferment (if your recipe calls for the same yeast).
Once the beer has set for at least two weeks (you can let it sit longer), you prime it, and siphon off the sediment into bottles, where it should set for two weeks to carbonate.
If you keg, you have a lot more options like secondary fermenting in the keg and force carbonating it, but kegging systems cost a significant amount, wheras saving the bottle from your micro brew purchases is free. I prefer the 22 oz bottles.
Oh, one more thing. EVERYTHING that touches or contains the wort or beer after boiling MUST be VERY clean and sanitized with bleach or Idophor immediately before use. Idophor has the advantage of being a safe, rinse free sanitizer, so thats what I use.
Last edited by Kenyth; 08-01-2008 at 12:31 PM.
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Originally Posted by Heftysmokes:
Maybe I should do a movie review on Apollo 13 and tell you all "that's as real as it gets" since I'm a fucking astronaut.
nut-brown ale sounds just WRONG![]()
"We're at NOW now... everything that's hapening now... is happening NOW!"
~ Col. Sanders ~
"I guess all we need to do now is give a shit what you think. I'll work on that."
~ ashauler ~
Shopping for my first brew pot. Knowing that I have a tendancy to jump head first into hobbies, I would rather get what I needed the first time and not have to upgrade later when I become obsessed.
Example: Get a trunk instead of a humidor.
Having said that ... what size brew pot should I purchase? I'm starting out with extracts but can definately see myself going more advanced in the future.
Something like this??? Link
Last edited by chefchris; 08-03-2008 at 12:31 AM.
Originally Posted by Heftysmokes:
Maybe I should do a movie review on Apollo 13 and tell you all "that's as real as it gets" since I'm a fucking astronaut.
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