Starting Construction

**DeeDubya** · 05-18-2009, 08:02 AM

I spent about 6 hrs yesterday on this wall and door trim. Boxing the support column in the right corner also took some time, but now I'm ready to start the display shelving. This week I will be picking up the cedar for the flooring. It will be a raised floor instead of directly on the concrete. This will allow air circulation around and beneath to further increase the amount of exposed cedar. RH was 64% when I started work yesterday. That's without a humidifier.
The gray box is a combination duplex receptacle and light switch in a "damp location" enclosure.

**DeeDubya** · 05-26-2009, 09:02 AM

2x4 treated subfloor "joists" spaced at 12" provides a 1 1/2" space that allows for air flow beneath the cedar floor. A 3/4" vent down both sides should help. This will also allow for drying if there is a water spill or leaky humidifier.

Rough cedar does not have exact milling and some of the T&G was a chore to firmly seat. Nothing that a block of wood and big hammer couldn't handle however.

**mrtr33** · 05-26-2009, 01:52 PM

Very nice work. How does that cedar sand down? Can you get it pretty smooth easily? Is it a hardwood, or kind of soft? Just curious.

**DeeDubya** · 05-26-2009, 02:21 PM

Originally Posted by mrtr33

Very nice work. How does that cedar sand down? Can you get it pretty smooth easily? Is it a hardwood, or kind of soft? Just curious.

Western Red Cedar is soft yet fairly durable. Compared to other equal size soft woods like White Pine or Spruce I would say it is stronger. I don't have a close up but this is "rough sawn" and has a fuzzy appearance. I will not sand it as this is desirable for good absorption. Actually it soaks up water like a sponge. You can stand a piece of it in a cup of water and it will have emptied the cup in five minutes or less. That's why I'm trying to get as much exposed surface as possible. It will make for a good buffer during the dry winter months. Opening the door even briefly will allow an exchange with the outside air so it needs to get back to normal quickly.

**DeeDubya** · 05-26-2009, 04:48 PM

I've also been searching for a reliable hygrometer. I ordered this certified digital one today. I was tempted to go with the certified analog, but cheese-whiz I could buy a box of Partagas 150's for that.

http://www.theweatherstore.com/nicedihy.html

**mrtr33** · 05-27-2009, 01:19 PM

Originally Posted by DeeDubya

...cheese-whiz I could buy a box of Partagas 150's for that.

http://www.theweatherstore.com/nicedihy.html

You can buy a box of 150's for $150? Do let me know. Really nice work, DW. I'm envious as well. Can't wait to see the end results.

**DeeDubya** · 05-27-2009, 01:59 PM

Originally Posted by mrtr33

You can buy a box of 150's for $150? Do let me know. Really nice work, DW. I'm envious as well. Can't wait to see the end results.

Actually, I think most all of the 150's are gone except for a few Ramon's that are going for around $5k. I looked at a very nice large brass analog (certified) that was around $495. It's pretty, but too expensive. This project is costing more than I anticipated.

**MrTamborineMan** · 05-26-2009, 05:13 PM

I envy you sir. Nice job so far.

**DeeDubya** · 05-26-2009, 07:32 PM

Originally Posted by MrTamborineMan

I envy you sir. Nice job so far.

Thanks, I can use the encouragement. It's taking more time than I ever imagined. The fun part is next, doing the shelves that require a lot of mitre saw cuts for the support members.

**ashauler** · 05-28-2009, 04:56 PM

Originally Posted by DeeDubya

Thanks, I can use the encouragement. It's taking more time than I ever imagined. The fun part is next, doing the shelves that require a lot of mitre saw cuts for the support members.

I'm a whiz at mitre cuts, and I'm available for adoption.