Starting Construction

**DeeDubya** · 05-08-2009, 08:02 AM

Advise needed: I'll be setting an exterior entry door to the humidor tomorrow. It is an "out-swing" as opposed to the normal "in-swing" like exterior doors usually are. The main difference being the weather stop is inside instead of outside.
Question - What is the best method of sealing the aluminum threshold to the concrete floor so that water can't leak in underneath? I assume it would be some type calk that adheres well to concrete. Any thoughts?

**DeeDubya** · 05-11-2009, 08:03 AM

I set the door unit on Saturday. This is a steel/insulated door. The game room is on the left. Sloped shelving will be to the right. The humidifier shelf will be to the left of the door where there is an electrical outlet and water tap. This wall will be covered with 6" tongue & groove cedar planks. I'm trying to decide on paint for the inside of the door. I hesitate using an oil-based enamel because of the smell, although it should dissipate before I start shelving cigars.

An exterior view of the door. Carport on the left. Ideally, I would have preferred an inside door into the humidor; however, floor offset, wall space, electrical wiring and asthetics prevented me from doing so. But since I never smoke in the house, and usually retire to the deck after selecting a cigar, it's all good having it to the outside. Also, the roof has a substantial overhang for protection on a rainy day.

**Diesel Grinch** · 05-11-2009, 08:25 AM

Looking good.

One of these days I need to invite myself down to Texas and visit a bunch of BOTL's.

DG

**mrtr33** · 05-11-2009, 01:36 PM

That's looking really nice, DW. Thanks for keeping us updated with pics.

**DeeDubya** · 05-18-2009, 08:02 AM

I spent about 6 hrs yesterday on this wall and door trim. Boxing the support column in the right corner also took some time, but now I'm ready to start the display shelving. This week I will be picking up the cedar for the flooring. It will be a raised floor instead of directly on the concrete. This will allow air circulation around and beneath to further increase the amount of exposed cedar. RH was 64% when I started work yesterday. That's without a humidifier.
The gray box is a combination duplex receptacle and light switch in a "damp location" enclosure.

**DeeDubya** · 05-26-2009, 09:02 AM

2x4 treated subfloor "joists" spaced at 12" provides a 1 1/2" space that allows for air flow beneath the cedar floor. A 3/4" vent down both sides should help. This will also allow for drying if there is a water spill or leaky humidifier.

Rough cedar does not have exact milling and some of the T&G was a chore to firmly seat. Nothing that a block of wood and big hammer couldn't handle however.